From skinny silhouettes to nature-infused motifs, these are the menswear trends we’ll see everywhere in Spring 2027.
A record-breaking heatwave, purposeful storytelling and masculinity reimagined marked the latest edition of Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027.
In Florence, Simone Rocha shaped her vision for the modern-day man, tapping into nostalgia and romanticism, while Miuccia Prada and Raf Simmons spearheaded the skinny-fit return from Milan. In Paris, Jonathan Anderson and Sarah Burton looked back on the past for inspiration, merging old-school sensibilities, historical motifs and rich detailing.
At the core of it all, however, was the idea of refining menswear, going back to the basics and rethinking heteronormativity.
Missed the action on the runways and front rows of Florence, Milan and Paris? Read on to discover the trends set to dominate menswear in Spring/Summer 2027.
A very m(y)ellow season
Challenging colour-neutral palettes, yellow arrived to warm up menswear this season. As a new elevated neutral, butter and sun-washed yellows coloured the runways, evoking a sense of ease, happiness and sensorial connection. Louis Vuitton’s yellow raincoats and Dries Van Noten’s layered separates stood out in this parade of yellow-toned looks, bringing warmth and optimism to menswear.
Celebrities are already on board with the trend. Names such as Squid Game’s Gong Yoo, Deng Wei and Mohamed Ramadan embraced the warm-toned hue on the front rows of Louis Vuitton, Dior and Amiri, while Bad Bunny took a page from the SS27 trendbook for his appearance at Haute Couture Week.
Skin to skin
Confirming the great comeback of the mid-2000s is underway, Milan and Paris witnessed the return of skinny and slim fits. These silhouettes propose conceptualizing a second skin in easy cuts and proportions, making simplicity a norm, only overshadowed by color and texture: bright-colored leather, denim and nylon.
While not many are on board with this divisive style revival—the push for ultra-slim silhouettes places the “thin ideal” once again under the limelight—according to brands such as Céline and Prada, in the coming seasons, men are expected to endorse highly controlled silhouettes that defy, in the words of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, “extraneous details and exaggeration.”
Going sheer
With or without heatwave, sheer or, as fashion has dubbed it: naked dressing, has become the ultimate signifier of sexy in the 2020s.
In SS27, the trend reached menswear in full force. Departing from the stereotypical tailoring associated with heteronormative masculinity, naked dressing channeled romance, sensuality and unapologetic confidence. Simone Rocha, Saint Laurent and Dior filled their collections with loose see-throughs in silk, organza and open-weave knits. Meanwhile, Egon Lab, Pronounce and Dries Van Noten took it a step further, combining sheer fabrics with sugary pastels, prints and elaborate embellishment.
Back to the roots
The more attuned to oneself the man becomes, the closer to nature and his roots he is. Reflecting this state of mind, natural themes and motifs became a main character in Spring/Summer 2027 collections. Givenchy, for one, sent flower-tapestry bomber jackets down the runway, while Louis Vuitton presented marine and algae and moss-inspired bags that stood out against the artificial beach setting. Vuitton also opted for beach motifs while Amiri, Dries Van Noten and Paul Smith interpreted nature through a range of details, ranging from elaborate embroideries to cartoon-esque knits.
Designers also reimagined menswear as a means to safeguard heritage and nature through techniques that preserve cultural memory. Dolce & Gabbana and Wooyoungmi, for example, reinvented fashion as a preservation tool, introducing embellishments such as Sicilian sangallo and Korean minhwa art into the runway to encourage the safeguarding of Italian and Korean savoir-faire.
Stripe craze
Can we consider a menswear staple a trend? Perhaps not. However, the stripe buzz was real, well and thriving at the latest Men’s Fashion Week edition. No longer confined to shirting or summer suiting, the stripe reinvented itself as a big fashion statement: total looks with contrasting pinstripes, pastel-colored lines and funky multitrack stripes populated the runways.
In Milan, Thom Browne experimented with head-to-toe seersucker ensembles and contrasting layering that juxtaposed different stripe kinds. In Paris, Rei Kawakubo embraced a similar principle—albeit in a color-packed version—for Comme des Garçons Homme Plus while Sacai added accents with striped fouldars and novel shirting.
The front rows didn’t miss out on the stripe, with the likes of South Korean star J-Hope and Chinese singer Kun (Cai Xukun) donning striped tailoring on the Louis Vuitton and Thom Browne front rows, respectively. Yuta Jinguji, a member of the Japanese trio Number_i, also made a case for all-striped looks, combining three different types of pinstripes in a single look.
Reinventing nostalgia
Historical and retro-infused garments were the season’s highlight.
Reinforcing once more the idea of a softer masculinity, tassels, brooches, boutonnieres and frilled details evoked historical garments and gender-neutral fashion. Dior and Givenchy’s tailoring softened with the introduction of playful and romantic button plackets while Yohji Yamamoto remixed modern silhouettes with details reminiscent of bygone eras.
Jonathan Anderson even looked centuries back, recreating a 1775 piece from the Mark Wallis Collection, one of the “largest private collections of historic menswear” in the UK. The coat was a core piece in the collection, showcased both on the runways and front row (spectacularly worn by brand ambassador Jimin). Dior continued its exploration of fashion across eras, embracing elements from the disco movement and the brand’s archives.
Amiri, meanwhile, looked back on Los Angeles in the 1970s, celebrating Hollywood culture with tailoring inspired by the Wrangler jeans’ construction, glamorous cuts and shiny textiles.
The broader idea was to look back at the past for pieces and construction elements that would still work and resonate in a modern setting.
It was overall an inspiring season where menswear played with color, silhouettes and traditional motifs without straying too far from the classics and yet achieving subtle novelty.
