Sociologically, this is what a neo-tribe is. Literally.
NCT 127 has been promoting stateside ahead of the release of their upcoming album Blingy, and each of the group’s public appearances has been accompanied by style statements to match. At their latest press commitment—a performance on NBC’s America’s Got Talent nonetheless—the K-pop stars made a solid case for fashion remixing by combining visual codes and style markers from influential youth subcultures.
But before we dive into the looks, a quick sociological lesson on subculture and neotribes…
There has never been a time in history when fashion and music have failed to intersect. Generation after generation, both have served as tools of expression, shaping artistry and entertainment worldwide. More often than not, these forms of self-expression transcended the personal sphere, influencing the cultural scene. The convergence of music, fashion and other factors such as political views or class consciousness gave way to groups that shaped their identity around a shared visual language, dress codes and, of course, musical taste. Mods, punks, the New Romantics, emos… and an endless list of other youth cultures have gone down in history for marking and influencing how young people present themselves to the world and interact with it.
In today’s digital era, ruled by consumption culture, however, subcultures are harder to define—some experts even argue that they have entirely disappeared. In its place, neotribes, communities that share common taste but don’t necessarily share a “style-based identity” or ideology, connect through aesthetics, fleeting “cores” and consumption of the same cultural products and media.
While subcultures might no longer exist as defined social movements, their influence hasn’t waned
Subcultures’ lasting legacy is impossible to erase or ignore, especially amid the endless loop of returning trends, repurposed visuals and nostalgia-driven concepts taking over pop culture.
NCT 127, the South Korean band recognized for its experimental, boisterous sound and eclectic image, has always been in for an out-of-the-box style moment. As K-pop is an amalgamation of music genres, choreography styles and visual references, the group often glides naturally between concepts: space cowboys, biker aesthetics, ‘90s-leaning visuals, contemporary streetwear… they’ve done it all.
For their most recent press engagement, the quintet—for the time being at least, since two members are fulfilling their mandatory military service—opted for a mix-and-match of styling influences, many of them rooted in subcultures and adapted to the present.
The singers’ wardrobe combined coordinated black items like patent leather pants and jackets, reminiscent of the bands that called Sunset Strip home in the late 80s—sans the hair metal hairstyles, of course. They also referenced graphic elements and metallic accents associated with genres like Visual Kei and punk, modernized since NCT doesn’t just copy styles without adding their personal flair.
Channeling ‘80s rock stars
One of Japan’s most popular names in K-pop, Yuta is recognized for favoring rock aesthetics on and off stage. Fittingly, the singer embodied a rock star of bygone eras for the group’s performance at America’s Got Talent. The star hit the stage, dressed in burgundy velvet pants, a faux crocodile-skin trucker jacket and an ’80s graphic tee that appears to be merch from David Lee Roth’s “SkyScraper” Tour. Leaning further into rockstar territory, Yuta sported silver jewelry that complemented the theme: spike necklaces, chains and chunky rings.
NCT’s frontman Taeyong embraced a similar energy, but with a hint of DIY sensibilities. His look consisted of black leather pants with red accents, paired with a distressed Enfants Riches Déprimés T-shirt. The piece featured ripped details that aligned with punk’s obsession with customization and distressed effects. The key element in the “WYLD” singer’s ensemble was the belt-stacking, a trend that has been going strong for a couple of years now and that NCT has collectively and individually rocked since 2024. Taeyong completed his look with statement jewelry and a slicked-back hairstyle.
Prada ambassador Jaehyun did his own thing with a head-to-toe leather ensemble: patent leather pants and a biker-style leather jacket. Adding contrast to an otherwise total look and also embracing subculture’s love for distressed elements, the singer wore a red graphic tee by Jaded London. The singer finished off the look with silver and gold accents, namely stacked jewelry and a statement buckle belt. Plus, he made a case for a classic heartthrob hair look with a gelled twist.
Trendy but well-informed details
No stranger to subtle sensuality and chest-baring looks, Chicago-born Johnny Suh accompanied his blonde buzz cut with a naked dressing staple: the sheer top. The piece was layered under a sequined and embroidered paisley shirt that contrasted significantly with the rest of the group’s stage looks. Balancing the outfit and embracing one of the hottest trends in street style, Johnny wore leather pants with a heavily adorned waistline: double belting, dangling accessories and chains.
The group’s youngest, Haechan, rounded out the ensemble, dressed in one of this season’s must-haves: the military jacket. This fashion item has been versioned and reintroduced across eras, thanks to subcultures like the New Romantics and emos and music acts like Michael Jackson and My Chemical Romance, among the most prominent. Now a runway favorite, the piece is reemerging as a wardrobe staple. Haechan combined this black militaria piece with dark denim and a red top. Similar to his bandmates, the singer also made a case for belt stacking and accessorized with chunky jewelry.
Blingy is next
Decked out in their well-coordinated ensembles, NCT 127 brought an energetic performance to America’s Got Talent Season 21’s quarterfinals. Taeyong, Johnny, Yuta, Jaehyun and Haechan delighted the audience and jury panel with a medley of their hit single “Kick It” and their latest release, “Pinata,” off their upcoming album Blingy, set for an August 25 release.
