Peruvian designer Jorge Luis Salinas brings Peruvian craftsmanship to the fore in “El Retablo.”
Fashion designer Jorge Luis Salinas paid homage to his Peruvian roots and the beauty of folk art with his Spring/Summer 2027 collection, “El Retablo.” Showcased on the first day of Milan Fashion Week, the runway drew inspiration from the Peruvian retablo, an art form with religious origins that depicts landscapes and daily life in the Andes.
First introduced as a portable altar by European missionaries, the traditional wooden box has evolved over the years to portray rural life, mountainous landscapes and communal festivities. With these dioramas serving as the starting point, J.Salinas built a collection rooted in Peruvian heritage, history and generational craftsmanship.
Echoing the storytelling informing retablos, the runway was a mix and match of textures, rich detailing and handwork. Each look thrived on a combination of artisanal work, complex garment construction and chromatic experimentation. Crocheted cutout dresses, fringed skirts, sheer organza tops and matching sets adorned with dramatic headwear defined the runway.
Meanwhile, the color palette channeled the vibrant and colorful festivities and scenes captured in traditional retablos. J.Salinas brought together deep shades of yellow, pistachio, turquoise and blue. Red, coral, orange and lilac complemented the chromatic range, capturing the liveliness of the Andean region.
As for accessories, the Peruvian brand extended its narrative with leather and crocheted clutches and oversized bags. The footwear didn’t stray far from the inspiration, featuring crochet detailing and floral motifs.
More than an aesthetic choice, taking the retablo as inspiration was also a way for Salinas to celebrate artisanal work.
Similar to the wood artisans keeping the retablo art alive, women masters have preserved manual work and techniques such as crochet and embroidery for generations. J.Salinas brings the spotlight to this art form in “El Retablo.”
“My aim is for each garment to serve as a bridge between past and present; for tradition to engage in dialogue with contemporary design and, above all, for the world to discover the cultural richness of our land,” shared the designer about his SS27 collection.
Salinas added, “What moves me most is that every Retablo is handcrafted. It bears the imprint of its maker, the passage of time and the legacy of tradition. It reminds us that craftsmanship is more than a technique; it is a way of keeping memory alive,” explains the designer.
While the entire collection was a love letter to Peru, the finale reaffirmed where J.Salinas stands in fashion: away from fleeting trends and Fashion Week gimmicks. Honoring the women who preserve traditional craftsmanship, Jorge Luis Salinas took a bow alongside four of the Indigenous craftswomen involved in the collection’s creation.
“El Aguajal,” one of Peru’s landmark songs, originally written and composed by Teodomiro Salazar Medrano, also known as “Totito de Santa Cruz,” played in the background. It was a moving and touching tribute to everything Peru represents.
